http://www.cantinesanpancrazio.it/components/deriber/267-spiare-le.php I should have known; five o'clock is tea-time for any young mother, and Sophie Grigson is no different, except possibly that Dad's here too, and, tonight at least, Dad's in charge because Mum's doing an interview to talk about Fish, the new book that she has written with Dad. Well, that's the idea. The tiny kitchen, made smaller by the presence of both an Aga and a "semi-professional" oven which Sophie uses for testing, makes no concessions to modernity and the kitchen table, jammed in behind the door, is cluttered with the paraphernalia of the children's supper.
Question: So what do children of gastronomes eat? Answer: the same as everybody else. For Florence 4 and Sidney 2 tonight it's sausage and pasta and carrots. For Dad William Black it's a snack of bread and prime-quality cheddar. Since moving to this rural idyll in the depths of the Northampton countryside three years ago the cottage dates from he has learnt to make his own bread, simply because "it's impossible to get any decent bread" locally. Because the children prefer white like all children it's white, which is to say, yellow as good home-made bread should be. Quality of materials is the central, most important thing in eating well, William stresses.
He's tired, having left home this morning at four for the drive down to Billingsgate, London's international fish market. Fish is what William does and knows.
He's a consultant with a major catering consortium soon to be floated on the stock exchange and today's crack-of-dawn trip was to buy fish for Bank, their flagship restaurant at the Aldwych. Do the children like fish? But then neither did William at their age. His Pauline conversion happened in Kinsale in The uncle of someone who worked there asked if I'd be interested in selling oysters, taking them around oyster bars in London.
And that involved going out to Kinsale where I spent two or three summers working on the oysters. Then I started doing a bit of fish from Ireland.
So that was my education. And that's where I learnt to eat oysters and appreciate fish.
Fresh soda bread, half a pint of Murphys and oysters, fresh from the water, is one of those wonderful combinations. She had first met Myrtle Allen through her mother, the food writer Jane Grigson; and six years ago Sophie and William spent their honeymoon at Ballymaloe. While Sophie talks about the Allens and Ballymaloe "heavenly" , William talks about the quality of fish at Skibbereen.
Not only does he understand the buying and cooking end, he is deeply involved in the ecological side and acts as consultant on sustainable fisheries to the Marine Stewardship Council. And from facts to fancy did you know that cod grunt and sharks fart?
A good fishmonger should actively inform and encourage. You should look at what's good and then buy.
Facebook Instagram Twitter. Grigson died in Broad Town , Wiltshire , on the eve of her 62nd birthday. The Geometry of Pasta. John Wright. New Releases.
They need a bit of support. An awful lot of fish are very interchangeable in terms of the way you cook them, although of course they'll taste different. Fish cookery holds a special place in Sophie Grigson's life.
Her mother's book, Jane Grigson's Fish Book, soon to be republished in paperback remains one of the most influential cook-books of all time. Was it not rather daunting, I suggest, to cover the same ground? Sophie's attention being temporarily engaged scraping something messy from the kitchen floor haphazardly strewn with stencilled fish - "all anatomically correct. William said he couldn't bear a faked-up fish on the floor. And I think our approach was different, in that my side of things comes from physically selling it and handling it.
Jane had a much more literary approach to writing a cook-book; ours is more practical and informative though it may not be as great a literary masterwork. Sophie agrees: "You get a very different angle from my mum's book. They are just reissuing it in paperback and I genuinely do think they do work well together. There is one very specific recipe of my mum's I included - the halibut with Welsh rarebit topping which was part of my childhood and when I started to cook for myself it was one of the first things I did and it's so easy and it's so good.
Because most people are influenced by their mothers cooking and my mother was just a heavier influence. There's no point in trying to run away from that. But she did try to run away from cookery writing. Indeed any writing. Her father was the poet John Grigson. So I studied maths as I knew I could be better at maths than my father.
This book gives advice about the preparation and cooking of fish. The Mushroom Feast is an indispensable classic for all those who love mushrooms. It is a fine, timeless, literary cookbook.
The reason for reissuing this book is because it is Jane Grigson's celebration of the seasons and the foods they bring and seasonality is now the top priority of all those who take their eating and cooking seriously. Here is a book which is guaranteed to fascinate both cook and traveller; it provides a wealth of information on the unique history and art of French charcuterie.
Every town in France has at least one charcutier, whose windows are Jane Grigson. Good Things Elizabeth David The reason for reissuing this book is because it is Jane Grigson's celebration of the seasons and the foods they bring and seasonality is now the top priority of all those who take their eating and cooking seriously.