Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer

Spin Cycle Not Working on Washer
Free download. Book file PDF easily for everyone and every device. You can download and read online Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer file PDF Book only if you are registered here. And also you can download or read online all Book PDF file that related with Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer book. Happy reading Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer Bookeveryone. Download file Free Book PDF Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer at Complete PDF Library. This Book have some digital formats such us :paperbook, ebook, kindle, epub, fb2 and another formats. Here is The CompletePDF Book Library. It's free to register here to get Book file PDF Drive Block Replacement on the 29 Kenmore Washer Pocket Guide. I know there is no belt. Gear box seems very unlikely. You should examine how the agitator attaches to the drive shaft below the top cap of the agitator. Sounds like it's slipping, and if that's the case, it may not be able to spin either. If it works differently than I think, it could be the clutch slipping. To get to the clutch is major surgery. You'd have to remove the agitator and would discover any slipping parts here on your way to the clutch any way.

There is a switch under the lip of the top where the post depresses a metal flange to trigger the drain and spin cycle. Believe it or not, the return mechanism under that switch is a rubber band. Yes, I wrote that correctly, a rubber band and when it gets old it breaks and the switch stops working.

There are two small phillups screws. Unplug your machine, undo those screws, drop the mechanism, replace the rubber band, replace the mechanism and it will work. A five cent rubber band repaired the problem. Careful to not allow the depress flange to fall out of the mechanism or you'll go nuts trying to make it fit again. Replace the band, screw it back into place, plug the machine back in and it will work. Trust me. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Why won't my washer spin even though it still agitates?

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Ask Question. I even followed a suggestion on the ApplianceAid. So I did. If I could have taken a picture of myself stomping inside the washing machine, I would have. Finally, I gave up on Google and used my own brain. I figured that the gunk was probably a mixture of solidified oil and soap. Maybe it would dissolve! First, I tried pouring some white vinegar into the opening between the tub and the drive block.

Looking closely, I saw what seemed to be microscopic evidence of debris dissolving. So then, I boiled water. I poured an entire kettle of boiling water into that sucker. Then, I yanked. And Holy Mother of Everything Congealed, the thing moved! I danced in my jammies. And after getting that thing out, this is what I found had been making it stick.

Gross, right? The task was harder than it might have been because now the tub was all full of water… the water I had poured in to loosen the inner tub. So I got a container and started baling. And when the water was too shallow to bale, I gathered up towels and sopped the rest of it up. Then, I cleaned that drive block with a toothbrush and probably a rag. Suffice it to say, you could have eaten lunch off that thing when I was done.

Not until you check out the solidified crud inside that hole: the rest of what was cementing the tub to the drive block. And this is what the outside of the tub looked like.

Imagine how it smelled. Just for a second. Okay, you can stop imagining it now. This part was not so easy. Remember, Michael had put the cabinet up on top of the dryer. He was not here to bring it back down, and I was not strong enough. Getting it down would be easier than lifting it up. All I had to do was inch it over near the washer and then try and keep it from dropping too hard. Once the cabinet was on the floor, I did another little happy dance in my jammies. Setting it up on the bottom rail was no easy feat, but I got that done too.

And then, I did laundry. Glorious laundry. Our washer and dryer are old. The website Appliance Just enter the Brand, Appliance Type, Location, Model Number and Serial Number both numbers are on that sticker under the lid and the site will tell you the date your machine was made. Ours was manufactured the week of October 26, So party on, Garth. No evil smells yet. The real conclusion in all this is that fixing things yourself if you have the time and obsessive persistence is a great self-esteem booster.

It's frustrating when electronic gadgets break, and not just because you have to go through…. I just cleaned my nasty stinky washer because of your awesome blog post. Breaking that crust that held the tub in place was hard, but after gobs of wd40, goo gone, and a lot of hot water it finally broke free.

This technique is what finally did it.

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No new insights. The tub will not budge :. Rock the tub from side to side. Then do the other side and rock it some more. It will loosen up then you can lift it out. Mine was rusted badly in the tube and the rocking broie the rust loose. Thank YOU!!! Take a bow! Nothing comes close to what was hiding in that washer. Still have the heebie jeebies! My washer still fighting back after the boiling water. So I screwed the spanner nut enough to be flush with the drive block and hit it with a hammer 3 times and the basket got loose.

Nice helpful article thank you! How many pots of boiling water did you use? We just bought a used Whirlpool Top Loader made in I tried two different new-fangled washing machines and they are terrible. So, we decided to find something used and as old of a model we could find. However, it has a nasty smell. I did a wash with bleach and detergent, then another wash with vinegar and baking soda.

It still stinks. I will try your method next. I am almost certain it is filthy with gunk and could use a good old fashioned cleaning. Thanks for the tips and links! Wonderful job and great information. All with a sense of humor. I had a similar experience with mine. I had reversed the dogs so it would agitate again. That lasted a good while. I ended up taking it apart later for bearing replacement. The slime that was where I could not reach otherwise was scary and mind blowing.

Thank you!!! Your blog post was the one that gave me the nudge I needed to disassemble and clean my beloved but elderly KitchenAid washer. With loads of help from my husband. The tip to use vinegar to loosen the tub from the spindle was also very, very helpful. We also dremelled rust off the upper housing caused by a liberal and imprecise use of bleach and painted with appliance epoxy after.

What is the upper housing that you are referring to? I have a badly rusted tub spinner base. Is they is the part that you dremeled? I trying to finfld out if it can be saved. I had a repairman take mine apart. It looked almost identical to yours. Mine is around 12 years old. I have cats so large gobs of hair in nooks and crannies. He said it just happens after so long and there is nothing you can do to prevent it. I never wash filthy rugs or work clothes in my washer, but there was sure a lot of filth in that washer.

I admire you for doing your own. It cost me dollars but it was well worth it. Now this is what a DIY post is supposed to look like!

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Step-by-step details and pics…great post. Thanks so much for taking the time to have documented your experience. Very helpful!! I watched TONS of videos, and read so many how-to guides about doing this. I stopped and started so many times because I kept hitting road blocks along the way. Nothing I found on any how-to site or youtube was nearly as helpful as this. I never would have guessed. There are a couple of parts to check for this issue. The first part to check would be your direct drive motor couplings. Then you should take a look at your clutch, your drive block, your tub wear pads, and your suspension pads.

Those parts can deteriorate over time and sometimes a quick inspection will tell you if they need to be replaced. April 17, Is there a video on how to replace this part and is it a good idea to replace this and the cam kit at the same time. Hello Bill, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you.

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Could also be something in the pump stalling the motor. It also has some of the quickest cycle times of any washer and excellent cleaning performance. Thank you very much for this great web site. In Stock. I followed your instructions and fixed the washer in the morning before I took my girls to school. October 15, at pm.

Look forward to hearing from you! Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above! Ask a Question Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Model Number Recommended. Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you. Average Repair Rating: 3. Dexter from Milwaukie, OR. Difficulty Level:. Total Repair Time:. Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set.

Follow the steps below:

Parts Used:. Washer made a loud banging noise at end of spin cycle, leaked water and agitator seemed loose. After entering the model number of your appliance you will be taken to a page where all of the parts are displayed by sections. On that page about in the middle there is a heading called "Find Part By Symptom. Basically I had three problem areas, Noise, Leaking and a problem with the agitator.

I found the clutch parts page and on that page there was a video on how to make this repair. This video is all you need to gain access to all moving parts located under the cabinet. Which ever part you are replacing, I recommend watching this video!

Kenmore 800 washer brake noise bang end spin cycle

However once the agitator was removed I noticed metal shavings and play in the shaft. I used a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I removed the Plastic Tub Ring has several clips around the outer tub , then removed the inner washer tub to replace the Drive Block. Replacing the Drive Block stopped the loud noise at the end of the spin cycle. Now just reverse the order to put the machine back together and your done. For my situation it was best to take the machine apart and decide which parts I needed before ordering to minimize errors. These machines are made very cheaply and are designed to brake at some point in time and it is very easy to determine which parts are worn because most are made of plastic.

In this process I also noticed where my leaks did I say Leaks were coming from. There were two hose clamps installed improperly from the factory, so check all clamps, hoses ETC. Read more. Was this instruction helpful to you? John from Hawley, PA. Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set.

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First I removed the two screws on the back of the control console at the bottom, phillips head. Flip that up and out of the way. Then you could remove the 2 big clips that hold the back of the washer to the cabinet. Disconnect the lid switch and flip the cabinet forward and out of the way. Remember when putting the cabinet back on, line up the slots on the bottom of the cabinet with the toungues on the base. Next pull off the fabric softner dispenser, then reach down in there and pull out the bottom seal of that to expose the bolt that hold the agitator on.

Remove that bolt and pull off the agitator. Remove that little clip and the plastic piece above the spanner nut. I didn't have a spanner wrench so I hade to use a small extension from my socket set and a hammer to loosen it. Once that is removed then you could remove the ring around the top of the tub, and pull the tub off.

Now you could see the block and probably all the metal shavings it's been creating.