Indian and Iranian madder are usually available in the Indian market for medical and dyeing purposes. In both the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan, madder was a very important plant for red colour along with Al —Morinda citrifoloia. Synthetic Alizarin has replaced madder in most places. Some of the Ajrakh printers based in Kutch region are still using madder regularly.
Pomegranate skin has been used since antiquity to dye wool for various purposes. The colour is not only fast but also very cheap. Fresh skins can also be used, but are often dried and stored as pomegranate is not available throughout the year. One can soak them in water for about 12 hours and that will yield enough colour. After this one needs to boil it for a very short time for dyeing.
Sappan was an important commercial crop like Indigo for the Europeans and was exported considerably from India, Malaya and Ceylon to different parts of Europe.
Natural Colors to Dye For - How to use natural dyes from plants and fungi eBook: Frann Leach: dynipalo.tk: Kindle Store. Natural dyes are dyes or colorants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—and other biological sources such as fungi and lichens. Many natural dyes require the use of chemicals called mordants to bind the.
Sappan colours range from orange to blue red on wool, silk, and cotton depending upon the acidity of the dye bath. Sappan can be dyed by employing a direct dyeing method. A yellow powder which is what gives the curry its customary colour has been used for yellow dyeing for a long time. It remains a fugitive colour. Powdered dry root is used for dyeing. Salt addition can help a bit in fastness, but still there are much better sources of yellows. It is often mixed with pomegranate skin. When it is dyed or applied on to the printed fabric, initially the fabric looks very bright shade of yellow orange because of the turmeric, but the colour fades with a few washes.
It is often mixed with other yellows and also used very often to create a brighter green with Indigo. Unfortunately the yellow part fades or washes soon. Natural dyes require a mordent to bind to the dye.
The word mordent is derived from the French word mordere, which means to bite. Thus the mordent a metallic salt, bites into the fabric and helps bind the colour. There are various natural mordents in nature which have been used historically all over the world. Alum — Potassium aluminium sulphate, does not change the original colour that we derive from a dye plant, but provides lustre and fastness.
While in the chemical form it is a white powder. Alum is one of the safest mordent when used in its natural form. Alum is mainly used to fix the colour it does not affect the shade much.
In the past we do find examples in various parts of India where dyers used alum in varying percentages to change the colour. By increasing the amount of alum used, they decreased the amount of the dye material and still reached the same depth of colour. Alum is quite cheap in comparison with most dye materials. Iron — Ferrous sulphate, green coloured crystals saddens the colour makes it very dark.
Sometimes the tonal gradation is so different that the colour itself changes. One has to be very careful when working with an iron solution, as the spots it leaves are quite strong. This is also used for dyeing grey to black by changing the concentration of the liquid. Black colour made in this fashion is also used in printing black colour by mixing gum, etc. Gujarat, Rajasthan, south India, all the natural dyes centres has been using the same.
Copper sulphate — Blue coloured crystals, gives darker hues. It is a poisonous material needs to be handled carefully. Chrome — Dichromate of potash is available as orange crystals. Due to poor light fastness it is not very popular. It can provide bright colours. Stannous chloride — white tin crystals is another material which gives brightness to the colours, but can also make the fabric very rough and hard.
An important factor when working with natural dyes is the part of plant used for dyeing. In the case of dyeing with hard materials like barks, roots or the wood, one needs to work harder to be first able to extract the colouring matter from the dye material. This means boiling the dye bath for a much longer time to get a desired colour.
But when one uses softer materials like flowers, petals, fruits, peels then less than half the time is required. Your email address will not be published. Glossary Acknowledgments Resources Appendix 1: Chemical properties of natural impurities present in cotton Appendix 2: Chemicals in Pre-Treatment Appendix 3: Chemistry of resist and discharge printing Appendix 4: About natural dyes Appendix 5: Sources for natural dyes June 27, Cutch or Catechu or Katha -Acacia Catechu, Aria Catechu Colour-light brown to blackish brown with different mordents Catechu or katha is often eaten in Paan, or beetle leaf, as an after mint in many parts of India.
There are three different plants used for extraction of brown colour: Bengal catechu is an extract from the heartwood and pods of Acaia catechu Bombay catechu was produced by Areca or betel nuts, Areca catechu Gambier was an extract made from the leaves and twigs of a vine growing in Malacca islands called Uncaria gambir 32 The available form in the market is small cubes of brownish colour of red catechu or black catechu.
Colours —Red, rust, maroon, green with indigo, yellow, reddish brown A shrub, that grows wild, as well as cultivated especially in many parts of the world. Colours —Rust, pink, red, maroon Madder is known to be one of the most ancient dye plants.
Clearly, natural fibres do not suit all types of applications, and it would be best to diminish the environmental load in every context whenever possible. The American artist Miriam C. The essential process of dyeing requires soaking the material containing the dye the dyestuff in water, adding the textile to be dyed to the resulting solution the dyebath , and bringing the solution to a simmer for an extended period, often measured in days or even weeks, stirring occasionally until the color has evenly transferred to the textiles. But maintain all necessary textile properties including durability and comfort properties. Luckily, it can also be easier to spot, with its deep red cap, gills, and stalk. Sometimes mordants are added to the dye bath and certain mordants can also be used to shift dyes to different colours. It was a primary supplier of indigo dye to Europe as early as the Greco-Roman era.
Using rainwater allows us to naturally remove impurities from the water that could impact a color outcome on fiber. After the dye is exhausted, it still contains the dye mordants and organic plant matter, both of which are compostable. Above: Dye plants growing trials that act as a natural insect repellant for the other produce in the greenhouse. Working in an agricultural hub like Lancaster County has allowed us to develop our business around the sustainable farming community.
We are collaborating with farmers in Lancaster to use our waste in responsible ways, and researching the benefits of using our exhausted baths as organic fertilizer. The plant material cooked down into dye is strained out before we add fiber, and composted and used on local farm land. Green Matters is located on a sustainable Amish farm. We have had the opportunity to use an aeroponics greenhouse to conduct growing trials on dye plants.
This allows us to have a better understanding of the resources required to produce botanical dye, document controlled application of dye waste as organic fertilizer, as well as source some of our dye plants locally.
Connecting with other domestic production facilities and becoming a part of the local fibershed has been at the core of our company since we started. Working as a dye house in the greater NYC area allows us be a part of manufacturing products that are sourced and produced within a mile radius, making us a part of the Made In New York movement. To adjust the pH correctly, check using pH paper after each addition of ammonia. If you make the bath too basic, add a little bit of vinegar or another acid to lower the pH.
Let the mushroom bath cool and then strain it through the cheesecloth to catch the tiny bits of mushroom. Squeeze as much water as possible out of the mushrooms, then tie up the mushroom-containing cheesecloth and return it to the dye bath. Next, add the dry, pre-mordanted wool to the dye bath. Make sure there is enough water in the bath to allow the yarn to move freely. If you are using a mushroom that needs pH adjustment, make sure the pH is still correct after the yarn and water are added. Use tongs or chopsticks to adjust the yarn a few times while dying it.
If the yarn arrives at a desirable color before the hour is up, you can remove it from the dye bath and place it in a pot of water heated to the same temperature as the dye bath.
After dyeing the yarn, remove the dye bath from the heat and let it cool slowly to room temperature overnight, if possible. Next, remove the yarn and gently squeeze any excess water back into the dye bath. Gently rinse the yarn in room temperature water and pick out any mushroom pieces that may have gotten tangled up in the wool.
Finally, let the yarn air dry out of direct sunlight. The dye bath can be reused to dye more batches of yarn. This usually results in a lighter color than the previous bath, but the stronger dyers can still produce striking colors after several uses. When using some mushrooms, different colors may come out when the dye bath is reused. For example, the C.
Using mushrooms to dye fibers is more of an art than a science. If you are planning on doing a lot of fiber dyeing in the future, it would be very helpful to keep records of your past experiments. To achieve consistent results, you need to make a note of the species of mushroom, type of yarn, yarn weight, mordant, yarn to mushroom weight ratio, time and temperature spent in the dye bath, pH and modifier if modified , and the number of times the dye bath has been used.
Many people also find it useful to keep a sample of the dyed wool along with this record to make picking colors easy in the future. Tags: arts and crafts mushroom. September 13, December 25, September 1, This is good, since H. Mushrooms like C. It […]. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
Polyporus umbellatus is a polypore that forms large rosettes on the ground.